Travelled Sunday afternoon to Ocean City, NJ. Waves were wonderful. Big enough to ride and look menacing when floating but not so big as to hurt. I rode them for a good 2 hours straight before the life guards called us out at the end of the day. Earlier, even when I thought I should probably get out the next wave beckoned me stay and ride.
Reminded me of a line in NT Wright’s book on evil. We like the beach because it lets us see the power of the ocean without having to feel it’s true strength. Something like that.
It is interesting that the wayves stay with you after you leave the beach. Ever had that feeling that you are still in the waves when lying down afterwards? I did. Reminded me that emotional waves experienced for a long time do that to a person as well. The situation is over but you still feel like you are in it.
See you later, I’ve got to go catch some more waves.